Questions & Answers

It makes a real difference. One bucket is for your soapy wash, one for rinsing the dirt off your mitt, and one just for the wheels. Keeping that grit out of your wash water is what stops you dragging it across the paint and creating swirls. See the three-bucket wash guide.

For most cars, every one to two weeks is a good rhythm — sooner if it's covered in bird droppings, bugs, or road grime, since those can etch into the paint if they sit too long.

That's bonded contamination — brake dust, rail dust, tar, and tree sap that washing alone can't lift. A clay bar and chemical decontamination sorts it out and leaves the paint glass-smooth. Here's the clay & decontamination guide.

Both pull bonded contamination out of the paint. A traditional clay bar you fold over as it picks up dirt; a clay mitt is faster and reusable but holds less grit, so you rinse it more often. If you ever drop a clay bar, bin it — one piece of grit will scratch your paint.

It's highly recommended. A coating locks in whatever is underneath — so any swirls or scratches get sealed in and can even look worse. Correct the paint first with a polish, then coat.

Anywhere from several months to a few years, depending on the product, how well it was applied, and how you look after it. Good prep and gentle, regular washing are what make it go the distance.

Best not to. Dish soap isn't pH-neutral and will strip waxes and coatings, and dry your trim and rubber out over time. Use a proper car shampoo — it cleans safely without stripping protection.

A dual-action (DA) polisher is the safest tool to learn on — it's very hard to burn through paint with one. Go slow, keep the pad moving, and remember: less is more.

Try not to. On hot paint in direct sun, the water and soap dry before you can rinse, leaving water spots that can etch into the paint. Wash in the shade on cool paint.

Use a plush microfibre drying towel and gently lay it over the paint — or a blow dryer if you've got one. Don't let it air dry (you'll get water spots), and never use an old, rough towel.

All three protect your paint; they differ in how long they last. Wax is natural and gives a warm glow for a few weeks, a sealant is synthetic and lasts a few months, and a ceramic coating is the toughest and longest-lasting (months to years) but needs the most prep. See the ceramic coating guide.

Use a dedicated wheel cleaner with separate brushes and a separate bucket, and do the wheels first — that way the brake dust and grit never touch the rest of your paint.

Once or twice a year is plenty for most cars — or any time the paint feels rough or gritty after a wash. If it's already smooth, you don't need to. See the decontamination guide.

Usually, yes. Even new cars pick up rail dust and fallout during transport and storage, so the paint often isn't as clean as it looks. A clay and iron decon gives you a true fresh start.

Bad washing technique — dragging grit across the paint with a dirty mitt or sponge, automatic car washes, and wiping dust off dry panels. Wash it the right way and the swirls stay away.

For fresh ones, a dedicated water-spot remover (or a mild vinegar solution) usually lifts them. Stubborn spots that have etched into the paint need polishing to remove.

A quick vacuum and wipe-down every couple of weeks keeps on top of it, with a proper deep clean every month or two. Do it more often if you eat in the car or carry kids or pets.

Find and remove the source first — old rubbish, spills, damp mats. Then deep-clean the fabrics and carpets, and finish with an odour eliminator (or an ozone treatment for stubborn smells). Air fresheners only mask the problem.

Yes — the cabin doesn't dry like the outside. Use damp cloths, not soaking wet ones, especially around screens, buttons, and electronics. Too much water leads to fogged windows, damp smells, and can damage electrics.

Used right, steam lifts grime and sanitises brilliantly — but it can also do damage. Too much heat in one spot can warp or melt plastics and trim, crack screens, loosen glued-on parts, and force moisture into electronics. Keep the nozzle moving, don't linger, and keep your distance on delicate surfaces — and steer clear of screens and electronics. Test a hidden spot first if you're unsure.

A diluted all-purpose cleaner works on leather, but a dedicated leather cleaner is gentler. Either way, follow up with a conditioner to keep the leather soft and protected.

Keep it clean and dress it with a UV-protectant, matte dressing — it shields the plastic from the sun and slows down fading and cracking. Avoid greasy, shiny products, and park in the shade where you can.

A rubber pet-hair brush or a drill brush balls the hair up so the vacuum can actually grab it. Rubber gloves rubbed over the fabric work in a pinch too.

Use a soft, lightly damp microfibre only — never spray cleaner straight onto a screen, and avoid ammonia-based glass cleaners, which can strip anti-glare coatings. Spray the cloth, then wipe gently.

Use an ammonia-free glass cleaner, spray the cloth not the glass, then buff with a second dry microfibre. Do the glass last so nothing oversprays onto it.

Spray APC or a fabric cleaner, agitate with a brush, then blot or extract it away — repeat rather than soak. An extractor pulls the stain and moisture back out for the best result.

Gently — a lightly damp microfibre or a quick pass with steam. Never soak it: too much moisture can loosen the glue behind it and make it sag.

A soft detailing brush or a blast of compressed air pushes the dust out of the slats. Steam gets in deeper if they're really grimy.

Clean and condition leather every few months — more often in hot climates — to keep it soft and stop it drying out and cracking.